March
25 – Sunday
The
day starts opened with the sounds of heavy trucks roaring down the streets. Our only view of the street is blocked.
The streets become quieter but as
morning turns into afternoon, there are sirens, honking in the streets and more and more noisy vehicles, roaring up and down the street past our hotel. Our small group searches for news - internet, T-V - to relieve our
collective anxieties, some by re-packing luggage and re-filling water bottles, the noise seems to rise to a crescendo. While staff come and go and everything within our little cocoon is normal, no one can avoid the pervasive sense of fear. Then the hotel manager tells us to relax – it is Sunday and these are weddings!
Well.
That is reassuring. Normalcy pervades even though there is
no good news about the airport. A few people venture down the street - after all, if people are getting married, life in Bamako cannot be that dangerous - to do some grocery shopping and even find cheese and wine to accompany our
spaghetti and tomato menu for the evening.
Surprise! Suddenly, the Tanzanian member of our international band
receives a message that if she can get to the airport quickly, she
will be able to leave. A small aircraft has arrived for the ministerial
official from East Africa. One of our party helps her pack, a hotel staff person accompanies her to the airport to
ensure her safety – and she is gone!
There
are a couple of cars leaving to parts of the city which are
considered safe. When they return, we learn that some have visited
an international bar of sorts (very unusual was the report – lots
of smoke, no dress code and loud music even in the middle of the day!) and
others to a local riverbank bar (but the dust was so thick and night
came on so quickly that they never got to see the river).
Bamako
is on the banks of the Niger River – an unusual river that has its
origin close to the Atlantic ocean in Guinea and wends its way onto
the desert through Mali and Niger more than once spreading into
tributaries and re-collecting itself before finally emptying into the
Atlantic over an enormous delta on the South coast of Nigeria. At
Bamako, early in its journey, it is already very broad, a source of
fish and water for a wide variety of fruits and vegetables grown
along its banks.
The
pronunciation of Bamako was a source of argument in Canada: to my ears, not always the most reliable, the first syllable is emphasized, but only slightly.
A
young French activist working for SURVIE in Mali tells us that the
people in the street to whom she has been speaking support the coup. A small left-leaning political party is having a press conference tomorrow in support of the coup - there are dozens of political
parties in the country and this particular party has only two seats in the current government. It is difficult to figure out what a coup
one month before an election will accomplish, especially if the
"couping" people claim to return the country to a
democracy.
The
hotel staff person has returned with news of a successful evacuation!
Our young friend is on her way home to Tanzania.
The
rest of us resolve to keep our bags packed. Perhaps, just perhaps,
another of us will be so lucky.
The
last activity of the day was a Skype call to Bill - so reassuring to
hear his voice - but also a demonstration of how dependent we are
upon having both internet and electrical services up and running simultaneously.
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